Pre-SIHH 2019: Cartier - Privé Collection, Tonneau watches

At SIHH 2019 (Geneva, January 14-17), Cartier will celebrate one of its oldest wristwatches, the Tonneau watch. Revealed in 1906, after the Santos watch in 1904, this model (whose French name means “Barrel”) once again challenged the tradition of round pocket watches.info: xtime-store

Cartier Tonneau watch, 1908

The brand is now presenting two reinterpretations of that iconic timepiece: a redesigned hours and minutes model and a skeleton dual time zone model, both models being available in platinum or in pink gold. 


The first Tonneau model respects all the key codes of Cartier watchmaking: Roman numerals, a railtrack, a cabochon on the winding crown, leather strap, screws on the lugs.info: xtime-store

The watch is true to the original but of course it is now equipped with updated technical characteristics, especially in terms of water-resistance. The bezel is formed from one block, with no overhang or breaks in the plane. Its contours and lugs melt into the watchcase.info: xtime-store

Polished, rhodium-plated numerals stand out against the dial background – champagne-coloured on the pink gold version, silvered on the platinum model. The platinum version, with its ruby cabochon, is a limited edition of 100 pieces.info: xtime-store

Both models are fitted with the new 1917 MC Manufacture calibre, a hand-wound movement beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour with an autonomy of 38 hours.


With the second model, Cartier pays tribute to the Tonneau XL dual time zone model part of the Collection Privée, Cartier Paris (CPCP), which initially had two separate mechanisms for the home time and the second time zone.info: xtime-store

Cartier has incorporated the same characteristics, adapting them to the initial shape without altering it, but with an evident spirit of innovation making the watch run on one single movement – 9919 MC calibre – and fitting the geartrain in a line.

Two complex feats were required in order to remain true to the original shape. Firstly, to retain the watchcase’s elongated form, all the wheels of the geartrain had to be aligned between 12 and 6 o’clock. Then the shape of the movement underwent modification, being made to curve so it fits within the curved contours of the Tonneau watchcase.info: xtime-store

The geartrain features angled cutting on its barrel and escapement wheel. This concern for comfort and ergonomic design required a clear demonstration of watchmaking mastery in ensuring the watch follows the curve of the wrist.info: xtime-store

The time is easy to read on the skeleton bridges, and the second time zone is set by pressing on the crown at 4 o’clock and by one-hour jumps.info: xtime-store

Cartier adds its own watchmaking signature by skeletonising the movement, bringing lightness to a traditional complication. The 9919 MC calibre operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vph) with a power reserve of 60 hours.

The pink gold and platinum versions come in limited, numbered editions of 100 pieces, while 20 numbered pieces are available in a special baguette-cut diamond-set platinum series. info: xtime-store